The Panerai Luminor Due 42 has every Panerai cue. The cushion case, the crown guard with the lever, and a sandwich dial. But the moment you pick it up, it doesn’t feel like a Luminor. It’s lighter, it’s thinner, and it’s only rated to 30 meters.
So is a Luminor that’s really built as a dress watch still worth it? This review covers the PAM01250 with the anthracite dial: the case, the strap, the movement, the price, and where it lands on the 5D leaderboard.
Key takeaways
- The anthracite sunburst sandwich dial is the highlight, and the sunburst shows up well in the light.
- The case is about 11mm thick, much slimmer than a standard Luminor.
- Water resistance is only 30 meters, so this is a dress Panerai, not a swimming watch.
- Retail is $7,800. Used, these trade between about $5,000 and $5,500.
- It scores 60 out of 100 on the 5D Score.
Panerai Luminor Due 42 specs
| Spec | Panerai Luminor Due 42 PAM01250 |
|---|---|
| Reference | PAM01250 |
| Case | 42mm polished steel, cushion shape |
| Thickness | About 11mm |
| Lug width | 22mm |
| Dial | Anthracite, sun-brushed, sandwich construction |
| Layout | Small seconds at 9, date at 3 |
| Crown | Panerai crown-protecting bridge with lever |
| Water resistance | 30 meters (3 bar) |
| Movement | Panerai P.900 automatic |
| Power reserve | About 3 days |
| Beat rate | 8 beats per second |
| Movement thickness | 4.2mm |
| Strap | Black alligator with polished steel buckle |
| Retail | $7,800 |
The dial
Panerai calls this color anthracite. It’s a gray sunburst, and the sunburst does show up in the light. It’s also a sandwich dial, so the numerals and markers are cut through the top layer and the lume sits underneath.
You get the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the date at 3.
The case
The case is fully polished. On a regular Luminor, I’d want some satin. But this is a dress watch, so the full polish makes sense here. It cleans up nicely. It’s just really hard to photograph the case and the sides because of all that polish.
How thin is the Luminor Due?
The thing you notice right away is how thin it is. This one is about 11mm thick. The Luminor Due came out in 2016. Due is Italian for two, and Panerai called it the second chapter of the Luminor case. The idea was to keep the Luminor look in a much slimmer case.
If a regular Luminor is a military Humvee, this is more like the H3, the smaller one that’s trying to be its big brother. It’s not supposed to be the Luminor. It’s supposed to be more of a dress watch. But it still has all the design cues and that sandwich dial.
Price and value
Retail on this reference is $7,800 from Panerai’s authorized dealers. Used, these have been trading between about $5,000 and $5,500, depending on what comes in the box. This one doesn’t have the outer box or the black Panerai cloth.
As a dealer, the used prices on the Luminor Due always surprise me.
| Watch | Retail | Used |
|---|---|---|
| Luminor Due 42, PAM01250 | $7,800 | About $5,000 to $5,500 |
| Luminor Marina 44, PAM01312 | $9,500 | Under $5,000 |
Strap and strap system
It’s on a black alligator strap. The strap is good, but I think it’s too thin for a 42mm case. It tapers more than a normal Luminor strap, so the proportions feel a little off. You can change the strap at any time, so it’s not a big issue.
The bigger thing is the strap system. This uses Panerai’s quick release system, and the spring bars are made to work with it. For a lot of aftermarket straps, you’d want to pick up aftermarket spring bars.
And if you already have a drawer full of 44mm Panerai straps, none of them are going to fit. That’s true of any Panerai in a different size, but it’s still worth knowing before you buy.
The lever, winding, and water resistance
This has the lever, which is my favorite crown system. No screw-down, for the win. It winds really nicely. It feels light and clean, and the crown moves easily. It feels different from the Panerai PAM00112, which runs an ETA based movement.
Water resistance is only 30 meters. I have to laugh a little that they kept the lever on a watch rated to only 30 meters. It doesn’t bother me, though. I’d never take this one near water. If I’m actually swimming, I’d want a Submersible.
How it wears on a 7.25 inch wrist
Even at 42mm, it feels so much smaller than a normal 44mm Luminor. It’s super lightweight. On my 7.25 inch wrist, it looks great. The 38mm Due is way too small for my wrist, but the 42 is right.
The P.900 movement
The movement inside is Panerai’s own caliber P.900. It’s an automatic with about three days of power reserve, and it beats 8 times a second. The movement itself is only 4.2mm thick, and that’s a big part of how they got the case this slim.
How it compares
If I had to put a rival next to it, it would be the Cartier Santos or the IWC Portofino. The Portofino is probably the closer one, and it’s also only rated to 30 meters. Between the Luminor Due and the Santos, I’d take the Santos.
Verdict and 5D Score
Is a Luminor built as a dress watch still worth it? I think so. Everything about it is clean, and I wouldn’t change much. If I could change one thing, it would be the strap system, and I’d put it on a thicker strap. If I was wearing a Panerai every day, I’d pick a regular Luminor 42. But as a dressier Panerai, this one does a lot right.
Aesthetics & Heritage — 29/50
- Styling: 7
- Movement & Craftsmanship: 7
- Cool Factor: 5
- Legacy: 4
- Value & Collectibility: 6
Wearability & Utility — 31/50
- Comfort: 8
- Usability & Tactility: 6
- Features & Complications: 4
- Build Quality: 7
- Versatility: 6
Total: 60/100
That puts it right alongside the Grand Seiko SBGR307, just behind the Omega Aqua Terra Captain’s Watch on the 5D leaderboard.
Who should buy it: if you want the Panerai look in something you can wear with a suit. Plan on getting a few more straps so the alligator isn’t your only one.
Who should pass: if you want a Panerai you can swim with or wear rough every day, go with a regular Luminor or a Submersible.
Get this watch, or one like it
This exact watch is going into a no reserve auction, so you’ll be able to see exactly where it ends up. If you’re looking for this reference, we can always find one just like it for you.
Want to be notified when I go live on these no reserve auctions? Join the 5D Insider list. You’ll also get better pricing, first look at new inventory, a heads up any time a watch goes live, and watch news with a weekly update.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "Due" mean in Panerai Luminor Due?
Due is Italian for two. The Luminor Due launched in 2016 as a slimmer take on the Luminor case.
How thick is the Panerai Luminor Due 42?
The Luminor Due 42 is about 11mm thick, much slimmer than a standard Luminor.
What is the water resistance of the Luminor Due?
The PAM01250 is rated to 30 meters, or 3 bar. It is not meant for swimming or diving.
What movement is in the PAM01250?
It uses Panerai’s own P.900 automatic movement, with about three days of power reserve. The movement is only 4.2mm thick.
How much is the Panerai Luminor Due 42 PAM01250?
Retail is $7,800 from Panerai’s authorized dealers. Used, they have been trading between about $5,000 and $5,500, depending on what comes in the box.
Is the PAM01250 a sandwich dial?
Yes. The anthracite sunburst dial is a sandwich dial, with the numerals and markers cut through the top layer and the lume underneath.
Will standard 44mm Panerai straps fit the Luminor Due 42?
No. The Luminor Due 42 has 22mm lugs, so 44mm Luminor straps will not fit.
What does the 5D Score rate it?
It scores 29 out of 50 for Aesthetics and Heritage and 31 out of 50 for Wearability and Utility, for a total of 60 out of 100.
