Bulgari just paired its Octo Finissimo with independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, and the result is a dual time watch that borrows its dial language from a 1990s cult favorite. It comes in titanium at CHF 70,000 (30 pieces) or rose gold at CHF 108,000 (15 pieces).
The short answer: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter pairs a new in-house automatic micro-rotor movement, Caliber BVF 200, with a dial inspired by Halter's own 1990s Antiqua watch. The titanium version (ref. 104356) is limited to 30 pieces at CHF 70,000. The rose gold version (ref. 104355) is limited to 15 pieces at CHF 108,000. Both run a 40.5mm by 9.7mm case with 30m water resistance.
The titanium reference 104356, one of 30 pieces, with Vianney Halter's signature blue hands and red arrow-tipped seconds hand.
An Unlikely Pairing That Makes Sense on Paper
Bulgari's Octo Finissimo has spent a decade breaking thinness records. Vianney Halter has spent three decades building some of the strangest, most technically ambitious independent watches in Switzerland, most famously the Antiqua with its jumping-digit display that looks like something from a Jules Verne novel.
Putting the two together for a dual time watch is not an obvious move, and that is exactly why it works. Bulgari gets a dial with real independent-watchmaking pedigree. Halter gets a production platform and finishing resources no independent workshop can match on its own.
The Movement: Caliber BVF 200
The new Caliber BVF 200 is an in-house automatic movement with a micro-rotor, developed specifically for this collaboration. It measures just 5.49mm thick, runs at 21,600 vph, and carries roughly 60 hours of power reserve.
What It Actually Does
Beyond hours and minutes, the movement drives a second time zone via a dedicated hand, running seconds, a date, and a day and night indicator. That is a genuinely full function set for a movement this thin, and it explains why Bulgari built a new caliber rather than adapting an existing Octo Finissimo movement.
Finishing includes vertical Côtes de Genève, brushing, and perlage on the visible bridges, standard practice for Bulgari's higher-tier Finissimo pieces but still worth noting given how thin the movement is to decorate by hand.
The Dial: An Antiqua Tribute, Not a Copy
Opaline rhodium-plated surfaces with sandblasted and satin-brushed sections echo the layered dial construction of Halter's original 1990s Antiqua.
Reading the Time Across Two Zones
Two larger displays handle local hours and minutes, while a dedicated hand tracks the second time zone alongside a running seconds indicator. The layout nods to the Antiqua's jumping-digit approach without literally copying it, since the Octo Finissimo case was never designed around digital windows.
The dial's opaline rhodium-plated surfaces mix sandblasted and satin-brushed finishes, a combination that catches light differently depending on the section. Halter's signature blue hands and red arrow-tipped seconds hand carry over directly from his own watches, the clearest visual signature of the collaboration.
Case and Pricing
The 40.5mm case runs 9.7mm thick overall, with a slimmer 7.7mm measurement from the caseback to the bezel's peak, a Bulgari Finissimo hallmark. Water resistance sits at a modest 30m, standard for a dress-leaning dual time rather than a sports watch.
Titanium (reference 104356) uses a sandblasted case with an integrated bracelet and is capped at 30 pieces at CHF 70,000. Rose gold (reference 104355) mixes a sandblasted base with circular-brushed upper sections and satin-polished bezels, worn on an alligator strap, capped at 15 pieces at CHF 108,000. Our Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm review covers the rest of the line this collaboration sits alongside.
The 15-piece rose gold reference 104355, worn on an alligator strap rather than the titanium version's integrated bracelet.
The Caseback: Where the Collaboration Signs Its Name
The Caliber BVF 200 micro-rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, finished with vertical Côtes de Genève and perlage on the bridges.
Bulgari uses the sapphire caseback to do double duty: showing off a movement built specifically for this project, and carrying both Bulgari's and Halter's names in a way that makes the collaboration explicit rather than a quiet co-branding exercise. The finishing on the bridges, vertical stripes over perlage, is standard Finissimo-tier work applied to an unusually thin plate.
Titanium vs Rose Gold Compared
| Titanium (104356) | Rose Gold (104355) | |
|---|---|---|
| Case | Sandblasted, integrated bracelet | Sandblasted base, brushed upper, satin-polished bezel |
| Strap | Integrated titanium bracelet | Alligator strap |
| Price | CHF 70,000 | CHF 108,000 |
| Production | 30 pieces | 15 pieces |
FAQ
What is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter?
It is a collaboration between Bulgari and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, built on a new in-house Caliber BVF 200 micro-rotor movement, with a dial inspired by Halter's 1990s Antiqua watch.
How much does it cost?
The titanium version (ref. 104356) is CHF 70,000, limited to 30 pieces. The rose gold version (ref. 104355) is CHF 108,000, limited to 15 pieces.
Who is Vianney Halter?
Vianney Halter is an independent Swiss watchmaker best known for the Antiqua, a jumping-digit watch from the 1990s with a distinctive steampunk-influenced dial, widely considered one of the founding pieces of the modern independent watchmaking movement.
What movement powers this watch?
The in-house Caliber BVF 200, an automatic micro-rotor movement 5.49mm thick, running at 21,600 vph with about 60 hours of power reserve and a full dual time, date, and day/night function set.
Is this watch limited edition?
Yes. Both versions are limited: 30 pieces in titanium and 15 pieces in rose gold, for 45 pieces total.
The ultra-thin case profile and integrated titanium bracelet, a hallmark of the Octo Finissimo construction this collaboration is built on.