
Rolex
Rolex Day-Date 36 Platinum — Blue Roman Diamond Bezel | Ref. 128396TBR
Reference: 128396TBR
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About This Watch
Platinum occupies the uppermost tier of Rolex's material hierarchy, and Reference 128396TBR deploys it across the full 36 mm Day-Date case to create a watch of singular refinement. Platinum's specific gravity — nearly twice that of gold — lends the piece an immediately perceptible heft in the hand, while the metal's naturally white lustre provides an ideal backdrop for the diamond-pavé bezel that frames the dial. The TBR suffix designates a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, a more architecturally rigorous approach than round brilliant setting: baguettes are step-cut rectangles whose long facets reward examination under directional light with a graphic, linear brilliance.
The blue Roman numeral dial introduces a chromatic and typographic element that distinguishes this reference from index-dial variants. Lacquered dials in saturated hues have long been a Day-Date hallmark, and blue has an enduring association with platinum — both share an inherent sense of cool authority. Roman numerals, rendered in applied white gold, reinforce a classically minded aesthetic that situates the watch firmly within a fine-jewellery tradition while the sapphire crystal, platinum crown, and triple-lock winding crown maintain full Oyster Perpetual specification.
Calibre 3255, the current-generation Day-Date movement, incorporates fourteen patents across its architecture, including a Chronergy escapement with 15 percent greater energy efficiency than the outgoing lever-and-wheel design. The bidirectional rotor in 22 ct gold maintains constant winding regardless of wrist motion orientation, and the 70-hour power reserve ensures the 128396TBR will run through a long weekend without attention. The President bracelet in matching platinum, with its characteristic three-piece semi-circular links, provides a completion of materials entirely consistent with the watch's uncompromising specification.
Specifications
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