Rolex Day-Date 36 White Gold — Diamond Bezel Rainbow Sapphire Paved Dial | Ref. 128349RBR

Reference 128349RBR is among the most visually complex entries in the current Day-Date 36 catalogue, combining a diamond-set bezel with a paved dial set with diamonds and a graduated series of fancy-coloured sapphires arranged to produce a chromatic progression across the dial surface. The Day-Date's exclusive restriction to 18 ct gold and platinum cases — sustained since the model's 1956 introduction — positions the 128349RBR firmly within the collection's jewellery-watch tier. The 18 ct white gold case provides a neutral metallic ground that allows the polychrome dial to assert itself without competition from a warm-toned case metal.

The dial construction demands substantial craft hours from Rolex's in-house gem-setting department. The base is paved with round brilliant-cut diamonds, each individually set into the dial plate, with the hour positions marked by larger stones. Overlaid upon this diamond ground is a sequence of calibrated fancy sapphires — their colours spanning the visible spectrum in a deliberate gradient — set in individual mounts to precise positional tolerances. The result is a dial that functions simultaneously as a horological instrument and as a gemological composition. The retrograde day and full calendar date displays, peripheral to the central gem work, are presented in white-toned lettering.

Calibre 3255, the current Day-Date manufacture movement, drives the 128349RBR with a 70-hour power reserve courtesy of its bidirectional Perpetual rotor and Chronergy escapement. The movement features a Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers across five shock-protected bearing positions, and COSC certification to -2/+2 seconds daily. The President bracelet in 18 ct white gold — with its characteristic three-piece semi-circular links and concealed Crownclasp — remains the Day-Date's exclusive bracelet, available in no other Rolex model.