Rolex Lady-Datejust 28 Yellow Gold — Diamond Bezel Champagne Index | Ref. 279138RBR

The Lady-Datejust 28 in solid 18ct yellow gold with the RBR diamond bezel — denoted by the suffix in Ref. 279138RBR — represents the pinnacle of Rolex's jewellery watch production in this size category. The 44-diamond bezel is set in a rain-bow configuration, with brilliants graduating in colour around the full circumference of the bezel, creating a prismatic effect that distinguishes it sharply from single-colour diamond settings. Against this, the champagne index dial provides a warm, luminous ground that harmonises naturally with the yellow gold case.

Movement duties are handled by Calibre 2236, developed specifically for Rolex's smaller Datejust models. The Syloxi hairspring — manufactured from silicon using a photolithographic process — provides inherent resistance to magnetic fields and eliminates the need for lubrication at the lever and escapement, improving chronometric stability across temperature ranges. The President bracelet in solid 18ct yellow gold, exclusive to Day-Date and Lady-Datejust references, completes an unambiguously precious ensemble. Water resistance stands at 100 metres via the Oyster crown and case construction.

Rainbow bezel references across the Rolex range have become among the most intensely sought-after configurations in the secondary market over the past decade, with secondary market premiums frequently exceeding retail multiples. The Lady-Datejust 279138RBR with champagne dial represents the entry point into this category and offers collectors a more accessible way to participate in rainbow demand dynamics compared to equivalent Daytona or Sky-Dweller configurations. Condition and originality of the diamond setting are paramount to value.