IWC Da Vinci Rose Gold — Silver-Plated Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph | Ref. IW393101

The Da Vinci Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph represents IWC's most technically ambitious statement within the collection that bears Leonardo's name — a convergence of three distinct complications, each of which would justify a watch of its own, assembled beneath a single crystal in a 44.0 mm case of 18-carat 5N rose gold. Calibre 89900 is a manufacture movement of considerable complexity: a self-winding architecture incorporating a flyback chronograph with column-wheel control, a retrograde display mechanism, and a tourbillon escapement that rotates the balance wheel and lever through 360 degrees every 60 seconds, neutralizing positional errors caused by gravitational influence.

The tourbillon cage is visible through the silver-plated dial, its rotation serving as both functional demonstration and kinetic display. The retrograde function — in which the chronograph hand sweeps forward and snaps back to zero at the completion of its arc — represents a significant additional challenge to the movement designer, requiring a precisely calibrated spring return mechanism that operates consistently across the full temperature and positional range of daily wear. A 68-hour power reserve ensures the movement continues running through extended periods off the wrist. The see-through sapphire caseback provides a complementary view of the movement architecture from the reverse.

The arched-edge sapphire crystal follows the curved case profile in a detail that signals Schaffhausen's attention to formal coherence across every component. The dark brown Santoni alligator strap harmonizes with the rose gold case in a combination of warm tones that reinforces the IW393101's character as a grand complication for wearing, not merely collecting. At its price point, this is among watchmaking's most complete arguments.