
Breguet
Breguet Type XX Steel — Black Dial Aviation Flyback Chronograph | Ref. 3880ST/H2/3XV
Reference: 3880ST/H2/3XV
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About This Watch
Born from a military specification contract with the French Navy in the early 1950s, the Type XX occupies a unique position in Breguet's portfolio: the one collection where operational utility has always taken precedence over decorative refinement, and where the watch's design legitimacy derives from authentic service history rather than retroactive styling. The Transatlantique Chronograph 3880 in stainless steel carries that lineage faithfully into the present: a 44 mm case of 17.30 mm depth accommodates the flyback chronograph movement without apology for its purposeful proportions, the solid caseback and stainless steel bezel chosen for durability over exhibition.
The black dial's white Arabic numerals — their red shadow detail added for legibility in challenging light conditions — recall the instrument dials of mid-century French naval aviation, where split-second decisions demanded instant visual parsing. The continuous small seconds at nine o'clock, driven by calibre 589F, runs independently of the chronograph mechanism, a distinction that matters to the pilot for whom elapsed time and base timekeeping must remain simultaneously legible. The flyback function — which resets and restarts the chronograph in a single pusher depression — was the operational refinement that distinguished the original Type XX from civilian chronographs of its era.
A black calfskin strap with deployant buckle provides the secure, adjustable fit that active wear demands, and the 100-metre water resistance confirms the 3880ST/H2/3XV as a watch built for environments beyond the boardroom. At £16,960, this Type XX is the most affordable entry into Breguet's manufacture complications — and arguably the most historically instructive, carrying within its steel case more than seventy years of French aviation heritage.
Specifications
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