The first time you see this watch, the case looks like it's got a layer of chrome over it. It's not. It's polished stainless steel.
That's the whole tension with this watch. It's going for a retro dive look, built out of a case that reads as chrome, a bezel with real gold in it, a ceramic insert, and a rubber strap. Four pieces that usually don't scream retro or heritage. So the real question is whether that combination actually pulls off what Breitling was going for.
What the Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20 actually is
This is the Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20 Automatic 42, reference UB2010161C1S1, in steel and 18 karat red gold with a blue dial. New, this configuration runs $7,250 on Breitling's own site. Used, it typically trades between $4,000 and $4,800, though that range moves depending on whether it's a full set, whether it has a warranty card, and which strap or bracelet it's on.
It runs Breitling's Caliber B20, a COSC-certified chronometer movement built on a base sourced from Tudor, the same movement family used in Tudor's own Black Bay line.
Is it chrome plated, or is that gold real?
Neither assumption is right. The case is polished stainless steel, not chrome plated — it's just finished bright enough to look cheaper than it actually is. The bezel is where the real material shows up: the outer ring and the index markers are 18 karat red gold, not paint and not a coating. Breitling carried that same red gold tone into the hour markers and hands on the dial, tying the whole two-tone look together on purpose.
That combination is exactly why this watch gets mistaken for solid gold at a glance. It's a steel watch with real gold worked into the design, not a gold watch.
Where it sits in Breitling's lineup
The Superocean Heritage II generation launched in 2017 as a refresh of the original 2007 Superocean Heritage, with the main change being a switch to a ceramic bezel insert. This steel and red gold configuration, with the blue dial, was added to the lineup in 2020.
Wearing it
It winds smoothly with no grit to fight through, and the screw-down crown on this specific watch catches cleaner than other Breitlings in this price range. The date window is the only complication, so there's nothing confusing about setting it. Water resistance sits at 200 meters, and at 42mm and 14.35mm thick, it sits comfortably on the wrist.
Breitling Superocean Heritage II vs. Omega Seamaster 300 Heritage
The closest real comparison is the Omega Seamaster 300 Heritage. Both are 1950s dive watches brought back as modern vintage reissues, with chunky markers and a heritage-style bezel. Omega's case runs a little smaller and thinner, and it's built around Omega's own in-house Master Chronometer movement, which beats the Tudor-sourced B20 on pedigree. Omega's bezel uses anodized aluminum with no gold content. This Breitling has real gold worked into it that Omega's version doesn't.
Does it pull off the heritage look?
Mostly, yes. The blue dial and the red gold tone work well together, and the hands are a strong point. The one thing working against it is the chrome-looking case, though it turns out that mirror-bright look isn't out of place on a real vintage dive watch. Many watches from the 1950s and 60s were actually chrome plated over base metal, since stainless steel wasn't yet the industry standard. So this case reads closer to period-correct than expected, even though it's solid steel, not chrome.
If one thing could change, it would be that case finish, and swapping the rubber strap for the metal mesh bracelet to push the whole watch further into the heritage look it's already going for.
The 5D Score: 59/100
This scores a 27 out of 50 for Aesthetics & Heritage and a 32 out of 50 for Wearability & Utility, for a total of 59 out of 100.
That places it 6th on the leaderboard, right behind the Grand Seiko SBGR307 (60) and just ahead of the Panerai PAM00112 (58).
See the full 5D Score leaderboard →
Aesthetics & Heritage — 27/50
- Styling: 7
- Movement & Craft: 6
- Cool Factor: 5
- Legacy: 4
- Value & Collectibility: 5
Wearability & Utility — 32/50
- Comfort: 8
- Usability & Tactility: 7
- Features: 4
- Build Quality: 6
- Versatility: 7
Total: 59/100
FAQ
Is the Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20 chrome plated?
No. The case is polished stainless steel. The high polish can look like chrome plating, but no chrome plating is used on this case.
Is there real gold on the Superocean Heritage II B20?
Yes, on steel and red gold configurations like this one. The outer bezel ring and its index markers are 18 karat red gold, and the hour markers and hands on the dial are finished in that same red gold tone. It's a steel watch with real gold worked into the design, not a solid gold watch.
How much is a used Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20 worth?
Typically $4,000 to $4,800 used, depending on whether it's a full set, whether a warranty card is included, and which strap or bracelet it's on. New, this configuration runs $7,250 on Breitling's site.
What movement is inside the Breitling Superocean Heritage II B20?
Breitling's Caliber B20, a COSC-certified chronometer built on a base sourced from Tudor, the same movement family used in Tudor's Black Bay line.
Is the Superocean Heritage II a reissue of an older Breitling?
Yes. It launched in 2017 as a refresh of the 2007 original Superocean Heritage, with a ceramic bezel insert as the main change. This steel and red gold blue-dial version was added in 2020.
